![]() Each window, track, mechanism and motor is only a total of 8 lbs. I also wouldn't go through the effort to go to manual windows for maybe 1 lb of savings. That other minor stuff adds up, but I wouldn't compromise the strength of things like a shift linkage for a few ounces when you have big items like those listed above to take care of. Rear seat is another 30 if you want to do that. That's about 170 lbs right there and the car is still perfectly streetable. Don't go too small because a daily driver needs enough enough reserve to deal with heat/cold and frequent starts. Medium sized battery can save about 10 lbs. Light weight wheels save about 35 lbs of unsprung rotating mass I liked having the stereo so I wouldn't have removed that. Here is my order of importance for weight reduction for a car that will be driven on the street because you can drop a lot of weight and still keep the car enjoyable. The topic pops up quite often on just about every car forum. It's a fun balance, and interesting to see what some people are willing to live with in the pursuit of lightness. I have no desire to run around with a CF hood, but it seems like it would save a good 35 pounds or so, which would be very helpful on this car. I actually just got a quote to repaint my hood due to 75k miles of rock chips and $250 was just the labor for R&R, so I am temped to just get a CF hood and have it painted. I'll possibly mount it in the trunk, but running a bunch of 4 gauge cable through the car doesn't sound like my idea of a good time. It's expensive, but if my red top ever parts with me, I will be getting a Braille. I had a hard time deciding whether or not to put it back in, but it just doesn't sound as good without it. I took mine out to diagnose some rattles coming from the rear end, and I could feel the difference with just that 25 pounds or so out the back. The easiest savings would be to take the subwoofer and amp out. 2980 with my 190 in it and 5 miles on a fresh tank. Yeah I just started a thread a couple days ago because I found a scale very close to my house. "simplify, then add lightness" - Colin Chapman IIRC stock is close to 2850 though there seems to be some debate on 100% stock weight.Īnyways, get creative and post up some ideas. Lightweight 4-1 SS exhaust manifold (no heavy cast BS)Īnyways, I am hoping that with a quarter tank of gas and just me in the car that it will weigh in around 2700 or less. Thin wall SS intake piping (really light but easy to dent or ruin from overtightening clamps)ġ0. Protege5 radiator (less capacity than MSP rad means less weight)ĩ. Cut out thin metal shroud in front of rad to make room for future FMIC endtanks (nothing structural was touched)Ĩ. Lightweight crossmember (undercarriage)ħ. Deleted ECU and ECU kick plate (the MS unit weighs nothing in comparison and I mounted mine out of reach of peoples feet)Ħ. Removed trunk carpeting and faux wood floorĥ. No Spare tire (I keep a tire inflator can and a CAA membership handy)Ĥ. I know I dont have a "legit" setup to compare to as I have swapped in a 1.8l BP, but my list should give you guys some ideas.įeel free to post up anything you feel is worth mentioning.ģ. You wouldnt believe how much of a difference their is in the car's characteristics when you drop a bit of weight. As we all know weight loss improves every area of performance (braking, handling, acceleration) and also improves the "feel" of the car. Thinking it would be a good idea to post up simple ways to improve the weight of the MSP.
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